If a 16" free height coil spring is installed and measures 14" we would say it has 2" of preload. Zero pre-load is the point at which the springs, slider, spring plate, and coil nut adjusters are touching with no play. The amount of threads showing above the coil nut adjuster is NOT that same as pre-load. Safety First! Installing coilovers on the vehicle for the first time can be dangerous so be careful! This will require lifting the vehicle high up where it will be unstable and this will also be the first time that your upper and lower coilover mounts will be tested under the full weight of the vehicle so make sure to support the vehicle with jack stands, wear eye and ear protection, go slowly, be vigilant, and use common sense.
If you have any hesitations at all, have a professional help you with this process. Finally, make sure to only use grade 8 or higher bolts, lock washers, and nuts. It is also highly recommended to "dry fit" no springs installed, no pressure in the reservoirs your coilovers and fully cycle the suspension to check for clearances, binding, component contact, and confirm full compression and full extension positions prior to installing the coilovers for the first time.
With the vehicle chassis suspended and the suspension at full droop, install the coilovers using grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and nuts. Check for clearances around the coilovers and then, very slowly, start lowering the weight of the vehicle down onto them.
Hopefully, once the weight of the vehicle is entirely resting on the coilovers, it is settled at or slightly below your desired ride height. Vehicle Sits 1 to 3 Inches Below Ride Height : If, under the full weight of the vehicle, your springs settle 1 to 3 inches below the desired ride height, then you will simply need to add that amount of pre-load to your coilovers.
Vehicle Sits More than 3 Inches Below Ride Height : If the coilovers settle more than 3 inches below your desired ride height, or are fully collapsed, then you will need to change your springs.
Please see our Coilover Spring Re-Calculation Guide to find the proper spring rates based on calculations from your existing springs. Vehicle Sits Above Ride Height : If under its final, wet, loaded, running weight, the vehicle sits above your desired ride height, then you will need to change your springs.
See our Coilover Spring Re-Calculation Guide to find the proper spring rates based on calculations from your existing springs. Important Tips: New shocks have very tight seals that will cause the coilovers to "stick" in different positions.
This goes away when the shocks are warmed up so be sure to make your final changes during your first testing session. It is also normal for coilovers to require different amounts of pre-load on each corner due to different corner weights. Finally, remember that adding people, gear, and fuel will cause the coilovers to settle a bit more so take that into account during your pre-load adjustments.
To add pre-load to your coilover springs, remove all weight from the springs by lifting the vehicle's chassis and letting the suspension droop out. Then, using a coil nut adjusting tool we like to use a screwdriver with a nice handle that we have cut down , rotate the upper coil adjustment nut down the desired distance.
Using a lubricant like WD on the threads is also recommended. If the coil adjustment nut uses a locking screw, make sure to loosen it before making an adjustment and then tighten it down when you are done. With the preload adjustments made, slowly release the vehicle weight down onto the coilovers again.
Hopefully, the vehicle is now settled at your desired ride height. Please keep the original purchase invoice within the warranty period—the lack of a proof of invoice automatically voids the product warranty. ALL invoices must be from an authorized Godspeed seller. Prior to returning a defective item, please contact our customer service by phone or email—we will NOT accept returns without approval from the warranty department.
Stabilize and support the car using any necessary equipment such as jack stands of sufficient load rating—typically, a 2-ton jack stand should be sufficient for most applications. The following photo gives a general idea where the jack points usually are on vehicles.
As a recommended safety precaution, it is a good idea to place the wheels underneath the vehicle, along the side skirt area in case of jack stand failure. You will be re-using some OEM hardware with the damper kit to re-mount the brake lines, ABS lines or any other lines mounted to the shock assembly. It is also recommended to disconnect the sway bar end link to disconnect one end of the suspension from the other to avoid any pre-load. Loosen the nuts from the top of the engine bay to loosen the shock assembly from the vehicle.
Do not remove the nuts, just loosen them leaving a few threads of engagement or else the entire assembly will drop down from the vehicle. Be sure to support the suspension assembly as you remove the hardware. It would generally be a good place to start by setting the length of the coil-over assembly by approximating the desired shortened length compared to the OEM suspension components.
Lift the damper kit through the underside of the chassis into position where the studs go through the OEM bolt-holes on the strut tower mount.
Thread the nuts till you can see at least two threads past the top of the nut from the stud on the damper kit, but do not tighten. This will allow an ample amount of movement in the suspension system to help align the lower hardware. Do not pull use too much force when doing this. Use caution and proceed carefully. Using the OEM hardware, replace the lower mounting hardware into the lower bracket and hand-tighten them.
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